Hong Kong Insider's Guide: East Meets West

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Hong Kong Insider's Guide: East Meets West

Everywhere you step in Hong Kong, you’d be hard-pressed to miss signs of the city’s unique fusion of East and West—a complex multicultural vibe that makes it such a unique and easy-to-navigate travel destination.

A fusion of two worlds

With a remarkable history that moves through Chinese immigration, colonization by the British and subsequent handover into a Special Administrative Region of China, it should come as no surprise that Hong Kong is such a melting pot of Eastern and Western characteristics. You’ll find examples of this in the city’s architecture, traditions, food and fashion. You can also take a walk around the Central and Western District to understand how this East-meets-West heritage has given the city a style that is just its own—that has to be seen to be understood.

 

Everywhere you step in Hong Kong, you’d be hard-pressed to miss signs of the city’s unique fusion of East and West—a complex multicultural vibe that makes it such a unique and easy-to-navigate travel destination. Hong Kong’s Chinese and British make-up runs through its fabric: it’s in the very stone of its preserved buildings and the old-fashioned street signs, on the racks of local fashion designers and the tables of the best restaurateurs. From this cultural fusion—these leftovers from the past—emerges a new, modern Hong Kong.

 

Statue Square in the middle of downtown Hong Kong is a fine symbol of the city’s architectural complexity. First named “Royal Square” when it was built in the late 19th century, it was later dubbed Statue Square due to the number of effigies here: Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and Edward VII were all honored in kind. The only statue still standing after World War II is that of Sir Thomas Jackson, a former HSBC chief. Bordering the square sits the Legislative Council Building: neo-classical in style, its designers—who had previously worked on the British monarchy’s Buckingham Palace—incorporated Far Eastern characteristics such as airy balconies and double-layered Chinese tiles on the roof. Its foundation is made from hundreds of Chinese fir tree trunks that were driven into the reclaimed ground. Another colonial remnant here is the oval-shaped Elizabeth II postbox: this red pill box is the last of its kind and you’ll notice that it’s now been painted green—a symbol of post-1997 Hong Kong.
 


Overlooking the square towers the iconic HSBC Main Building, a thoroughly modern take on an ancient Chinese concept. Designed by British architect Lord Norman Foster (London’s The Gherkin), components were brought in from all over the world, but it is the building’s distinctive feng shui that really gives it character. Its ideal orientation (water in front; mountains behind) is enhanced by the unusual alignment of external steel columns believed to ward off evil spirits; an internal layout that is divided into five zones to mirror the five elements of fire, earth, water, wood and metal; and a pair of lion statues (Stephen and Stitt) marking the entrance that are said to guard the building’s wealth.

 

To take a look at some of Hong Kong’s older buildings, step out on the Wan Chai Heritage Trail. This self-guided architectural and cultural walking tour takes in some 15 spots that reflect a confluence of design techniques: from early 20th century French windows to Chinese wood carvings. At 60-66 Johnston Road you can see a fine example of four tong lau—old Chinese tenement buildings that were once seen all over southern China. Used as shophouses, these structures are characterized by their distinctive narrow frontage, high ceilings, French windows and spacious verandahs. Downstairs would be a business such as a pawnshop, with the family living upstairs.

Many of these tong laus have been preserved today and have been refitted for modern purposes. Number 66 Johnston Road is now the refurbished lifestyle store Tang Tang Tang Tang, owned by entrepreneur Sir David Tang. The windows, archways and high ceilings are still intact, but inside you’ll find retro-colonial Hong Kong products for the home that have been given a modern Western twist. You’ll see that it’s not just architecture that reflects the city’s East-meets-West fusion, but its fashion sense too.

Dining is another side of Hong Kong where you can see a variety of cultures and flavors at work. Take the old-school Hong Kong diner—the bing sutt—as an example of how the city has put its own spin on Western food. Originating in the 50s and 60s, these canteen-style restaurants are reminiscent of 1950s Western cafés and attract Hongkongers who are after simple, comforting fare. Swiss Cafe may serve nothing like what you’d find in Switzerland, but its 60s décor is complemented by local breakfast favorites such as egg toast, Hong Kong milk tea and vermicelli with soup, or lunch items like minced beef in tomato sauce with rice and fried egg, and luncheon meat and spaghetti in soup.
 

Whether it’s the food, fashion, architecture, or simply the atmosphere pervading the city, you’ll discover a culture here that is completely unique: it has adopted the best developments of both the East and West to create a third entity—a culture that is indescribably and inexplicably Hong Kong.

 

 

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